forsythia x intermedia PFAF Plant Database

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forsythia x intermedia - Zabel.

Common Name

Family

Oleaceae

Synonyms

Known Hazards

None known

Habitats

Not known in the wild.

Range

A hybrid of garden origin, F. suspensa x F. viridissima.

Edibility Rating

Medicinal Rating

Care

Summary

Physical Characteristics

forsythia x intermedia is a deciduous Shrub growing to 2.5 m (8ft) by 2.5 m (8ft).
It is hardy to zone 5. It is in flower from Mar to April. The flowers are hermaphrodite (have both male and female organs) and are pollinated by Insects.

Suitable for: light (sandy), medium (loamy) and heavy (clay) soils and prefers well-drained soil. Suitable pH: acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils and can grow in very alkaline soils.
It can grow in full shade (deep woodland) semi-shade (light woodland) or no shade. It prefers moist soil.


http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:4028mdk09

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Habitats
Woodland Garden Dappled Shade; Shady Edge; not Deep Shade; Hedge;

Edible Uses
None known

Medicinal Uses
Plants For A Future can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally. None known

Other Uses
Hedge; Hedge. Can be grown as a tall hedge, the var. 'Lynwood' is frequently used[29]. Var. 'Spectabilis' also makes a good hedge[200] as does 'Beatrix Farrand'[188].

Cultivation details

An easily grown plant, it succeeds in a well drained ordinary garden soil but prefers a rich soil[1]. Succeeds in limy soils[11]. Prefers a sunny position but succeeds in semi shade[200]. Plants are tolerant of deep shade[219]. A very ornamental plant[1], there are several named varieties. Any pruning out of weak shoots, plus any trimming of hedges, is best done after the plant has flowered[188]. Birds may destroy the flower buds in cold areas[200]. This species is notably susceptible to honey fungus[200].

Propagation

Seed - sow spring in a cold frame. The seed usually germinates within 2 months[K]. When they are large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and grow them on in the greenhouse for at least their first winter. Plant them out into their permanent positions in late spring or early summer, after the last expected frosts. This is a hybrid species and seed will not come true to type. Cuttings of half-ripe wood 10 - 15cm taken at a node, July/August in a frame. Plant out in autumn or spring. A very high percentage, they root within 3 weeks[78]. Cuttings of mature wood in a sheltered outdoor bed. Good percentage[78].

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Expert comment

Author
Zabel.

Botanical References
11200

Links / References

[K] Ken Fern Notes from observations, tasting etc at Plants For A Future and on field trips.

[1]F. Chittendon. RHS Dictionary of Plants plus Supplement. 1956

Comprehensive listing of species and how to grow them. Somewhat outdated, it has been replaces in 1992 by a new dictionary (see [200]).

[11]Bean. W. Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement.

A classic with a wealth of information on the plants, but poor on pictures.

[29]Shepherd. F.W. Hedges and Screens.

A small but informative booklet giving details of all the hedging plants being grown in the R.H.S. gardens at Wisley in Surrey.

[78]Sheat. W. G. Propagation of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers.

A bit dated but a good book on propagation techniques with specific details for a wide range of plants.

[188]Brickell. C. The RHS Gardener's Encyclopedia of Plants and Flowers

Excellent range of photographs, some cultivation details but very little information on plant uses.

[200]Huxley. A. The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992.

Excellent and very comprehensive, though it contains a number of silly mistakes. Readable yet also very detailed.

[219]Grey-Wilson. C. & Matthews. V. Gardening on Walls

A nice little book about plants for growing against walls and a small section on plants that can grow in walls.

Readers comment

Elizabeth H.
Guy Gagnon	Tue Jul 15 2008

When growing forsythia from a green cutting what is the proper procedure? I usually cut it on a bias, pull off two rows of leaves and cover the wounds in root hormone. I have never shortened the cutting which are two to three feet long. I have only had moderate success with this approach. Any suggestions?

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