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Mespilus germanica - L.                
                 
Common Name Medlar
Family Rosaceae
Synonyms Pyrus germanica.
Known Hazards The seeds contain the toxic hydrocyanic acid (the substance that gives almonds their flavour) and should not be eaten in quantity[7].
Habitats Woods and hedgerows[7, 17].
Range S.E. Europe to W. Asia. Occasionally naturalized in Britain.
Edibility Rating  
Medicinal Rating  
Care
Fully Hardy Moist Soil Semi-shade Full sun

Summary       

Physical Characteristics       
 icon of manicon of lolypop
Mespilus germanica is a deciduous Tree growing to 6 m (19ft) by 6 m (19ft) at a medium rate.
It is hardy to zone 6 and is not frost tender. It is in flower from May to June, and the seeds ripen in November. The flowers are hermaphrodite (have both male and female organs) and are pollinated by Bees.The plant is self-fertile.


Suitable for: light (sandy), medium (loamy) and heavy (clay) soils and prefers well-drained soil. Suitable pH: acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils. It can grow in semi-shade (light woodland) or no shade. It prefers moist soil. The plant can tolerates strong winds but not maritime exposure.

Mespilus germanica Medlar


http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mespilus_germanica_Sturm2.jpg
Mespilus germanica Medlar
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Llez
   
Habitats       
Woodland Garden Secondary; Sunny Edge; Dappled Shade;
Edible Uses                                         
Edible Parts: Fruit.
Edible Uses:

Fruit - raw or cooked[2, 3, 5, 7, 12]. The fruit does not always ripen fully in cooler temperate zones such as Britain. However it can be harvested in late autumn (preferably after it has had some frost) whilst still hard and then needs to be bletted before it can be eaten raw. This entails storing it, stalk end upwards, in a cool place for a short while until it is on the point of (but not quite) rotting[200], a state described as incipient decay. At this stage the flesh turns from white to brown, becomes very soft and is quite sweet with an absolutely delicious flavour that somewhat resembles a luscious tropical fruit[K]. The fruit of the wild species is up to 25mm in diameter, though some cultivars can be 65mm or more in diameter[200].
Medicinal Uses


Plants For A Future can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

Astringent;  Laxative.

The pulp of the fruit is laxative[7]. The leaves are astringent[7]. The seed is lithontripic[7]. It is ground up for use, but caution should be employed since the seeds contain the toxin hydrocyanic acid[7]. The bark has been used as a substitute for quinine, but with uncertain results[7].
Other Uses
Wood.

Wood - hard, flexible[100].
Cultivation details                                         
Succeeds in most soils[11], preferring one that is moist and well-drained[1, 37, 200]. Prefers a sunny position[1, 3] and a fertile soil[188]. Occasionally cultivated for its edible fruit, there are some named varieties[183, 200].
                                                                                 
Propagation                                         
Seed - best sown as soon as it is ripe in late autumn in a cold frame[78]. The seed has a very hard and impermeable seedcoat and will not usually germinate until it has gone through two winters. Commercially, such seeds are soaked for a short while in sulphuric acid to break down the seed coat and allow the seed to take up moisture, this is a very delicate procedure and difficult to do on a small scale. A home gardener could try soaking the seed for 24 hours in warm water then cold stratifying it for 2 - 3 months at 1 - 5°c before sowing it. Alternatively, if you can harvest the seed green (as soon as it is mature but before the seed coat has dried and hardened), then sow it immediately in a cold frame you might reduce the time needed for it to germinate. When they are large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and grow them on in the cold frame for their first winter. Plant them out into their permanent positions in late spring or early summer, after the last expected frosts. Cuttings of mature wood, November in a cold frame. Poor percentage. Layering in autumn or early spring. Takes 18 months[78].
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Expert comment                                         
 
      
Author                                         
L.
                                                                                 
Botanical References                                         
11200
                                                                                 
Links / References                                         

  [K] Ken Fern Notes from observations, tasting etc at Plants For A Future and on field trips.

[1]F. Chittendon. RHS Dictionary of Plants plus Supplement. 1956
Comprehensive listing of species and how to grow them. Somewhat outdated, it has been replaces in 1992 by a new dictionary (see [200]).
[2]Hedrick. U. P. Sturtevant's Edible Plants of the World.
Lots of entries, quite a lot of information in most entries and references.
[3]Simmons. A. E. Growing Unusual Fruit.
A very readable book with information on about 100 species that can be grown in Britain (some in greenhouses) and details on how to grow and use them.
[5]Mabey. R. Food for Free.
Edible wild plants found in Britain. Fairly comprehensive, very few pictures and rather optimistic on the desirability of some of the plants.
[7]Chiej. R. Encyclopaedia of Medicinal Plants.
Covers plants growing in Europe. Also gives other interesting information on the plants. Good photographs.
[11]Bean. W. Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement.
A classic with a wealth of information on the plants, but poor on pictures.
[12]Loewenfeld. C. and Back. P. Britain's Wild Larder.
A handy pocket guide.
[17]Clapham, Tootin and Warburg. Flora of the British Isles.
A very comprehensive flora, the standard reference book but it has no pictures.
[37]Thompson. B. The Gardener's Assistant.
Excellent general but extensive guide to gardening practices in the 19th century. A very good section on fruits and vegetables with many little known species.
[78]Sheat. W. G. Propagation of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers.
A bit dated but a good book on propagation techniques with specific details for a wide range of plants.
[100]Polunin. O. Flowers of Europe - A Field Guide.
An excellent and well illustrated pocket guide for those with very large pockets. Also gives some details on plant uses.
[183]Facciola. S. Cornucopia - A Source Book of Edible Plants.
Excellent. Contains a very wide range of conventional and unconventional food plants (including tropical) and where they can be obtained (mainly N. American nurseries but also research institutes and a lot of other nurseries from around the world.
[188]Brickell. C. The RHS Gardener's Encyclopedia of Plants and Flowers
Excellent range of photographs, some cultivation details but very little information on plant uses.
[200]Huxley. A. The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992.
Excellent and very comprehensive, though it contains a number of silly mistakes. Readable yet also very detailed.

Readers comment                                         
 
Elizabeth H.
Ty Jeffries Mon Sep 6 15:49:13 2004
I planted a Nottingham Medlar in my small front garden.It is a tree of probably four or five years old It gets full sun( when we have any) all afternoon. It is quite lovley has started sprouting again as if it may flower for some reason in again in september ..althoughit it's already covered in fruit. I think it is one of my favourite trees for a small garden...I bought it last october when it was simply a glowing scarlet thing and i look forward to seeing its colour again this autumn.Your site is very thorough and informative and it sounds like you're doing great work...keep it up!
Elizabeth H.
Katherine Ellis Tue Jul 7 2009
We have a house in the Cote d'Azur with a typical Mediterranean climate. We have a mespilus germanica (neflier in French)in a raised bed on a terrace. Earlier this year, some of the leaves curled and turned black. Our gardener claims that it had been over-watered, and is now restricting the watering to once per week. We, on the other hand, believe that it was probably under-watered. Do you have any advice? Many thanks
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