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Phormium tenax - J.R.Forst.&G.Forst.

New Zealand Flax

Author	J.R.Forst.&G.Forst.	Botanical references	11, 44, 200
Family	Agavaceae	Genus	Phormium
Synonyms
Known Hazards	None known
Range	New Zealand. Naturalized in Britain in S.W. England[17].
Habitat	Lowland swamps and intermittently flooded land, North South Stewart, Chatham and Auckland Islands[44].
Edibility Rating	2 (1-5)	Medicinal Rating	0 (1-5)

Physical Characteristics

An evergreen Perennial growing to 3m by 2m.

The plant prefers light (sandy), medium (loamy) and heavy (clay) soils. The plant prefers acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils and can grow in saline soil. It can grow in semi-shade (light woodland) or no shade. It requires moist or wet soil. The plant can tolerate maritime exposure.

Habitats

Woodland Garden; Sunny Edge; Bog Garden; Cultivated Beds;

Edible Uses

Edible Parts: Nectar.

Edible Uses: Coffee; Gum.

The roasted seed is used as a coffee substitute[153, 173]. An edible nectar is obtained from the flowers[173]. Very wholesome eating[183]. A long hollow grass-stalk or straw is used to suck it out of the flowers[183]. An edible gum is obtained from the base of the leaves[173].

Medicinal Uses

Plants For A Future can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

None known

Other Uses

Adhesive; Alcohol; Basketry; Dye; Fibre; Gum; Paper; Tannin.

A very high quality pliable fibre is obtained from the leaves[11, 57, 61, 128, 153]. It is used in the manufacture of ropes (they are not very strong[46]), twine, fine cloth etc. The fibre can also be used for making paper[189] The leaves are harvested in summer, they are scraped to remove the outer skin and are then soaked in water for 2 hours prior to cooking. The fibres are cooked for 24 hours with lye and then beaten in a ball mill for 4 hours. They make a cream paper[189]. The split leaves can be used to make nets, cloaks, sandals, straps etc[153]. They are also used in making paper and basket making[153, 169]. A strip of a leaf is an excellent emergency string substitute for tying up plants in the garden, it can be tied into a knot without breaking[128]. The leaf pulp, after the fibre has been removed, can be fermented to make alcohol[153]. A gum found in the leaves is used as a paper glue[173]. A brown dye is obtained from the flowers[168], it does not require a mordant[169]. A terra-cotta dye is obtained from the seedpods[168]. A mauve can also be obtained[168]. The flowers are rich in tannin[168].

Cultivation details

Prefers a rich loamy soil[1] but is not too fussy, succeeding in peaty soils and in boggy moorland[11]. Tolerates light shade[1] but prefers full sun[200]. Plants can be grown in quite coarse grass, which can be cut annually in the autumn[233]. Prefers a sheltered position[42] but tolerates maritime exposure[75]. Plants tolerate occasional flooding with saline water[200]. Plants can withstand temperatures down to about -11°c[42], but they can be killed in very severe winters in Britain[11]. A polymorphic species[78], there are many named varieties grown in Britain[11, 200]. This species hybridizes readily with P. colensoi and there are many named forms that may be hybrids with that species[11]. This plant has been considered for commercial cultivation for its fibre, though there is some difficulty in mechanically extracting the fibres due to the presence of a gum in the leaves. An alkali has been successfully used to break down the gum but this weakens the fibre. The Maoris had selected many different cultivars for different uses[153]. Members of this genus are rarely if ever troubled by browsing deer or rabbits[233].

Propagation

The seed is best sown as soon as it is ripe in a cold frame. Sow stored seed in February in a cold frame. Germination is sometimes poor but should take place in 1 - 6 months at 15°c. The seedlings are very variable. When they are large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and grow them on in the greenhouse for at least their first winter. Plant them out into their permanent positions in late spring or early summer, after the last expected frosts. The seed remains viable for about 12 months in normal storage[1]. Division in spring as growth commences. Very easy, larger divisions can be planted out direct into their permanent positions. We have found that it is better to pot up the smaller divisions and grow them on in light shade in a cold frame until they are well established before planting them out in late spring or early summer.

Cultivars

'Yellow Wave'

This cultivar is somewhat smaller growing than the type species and has attractively variegated leaves. It might be a hybrid with P. colensoi.

Links

This plant is also mentioned in the following PFAF articles: Fiber Plants, Hedges and their uses.

References

[1] F. Chittendon. RHS Dictionary of Plants plus Supplement. 1956 Oxford University Press 1951
Comprehensive listing of species and how to grow them. Somewhat outdated, it has been replaces in 1992 by a new dictionary (see [200]).

[11] Bean. W. Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement. Murray 1981
A classic with a wealth of information on the plants, but poor on pictures.

[17] Clapham, Tootin and Warburg. Flora of the British Isles. Cambridge University Press 1962
A very comprehensive flora, the standard reference book but it has no pictures.

[42] Grey. C. H. Hardy Bulbs. Williams & Norgate. 1938
Rather dated now, but an immense work on bulbs for temperate zones and how to grow them. Three large volumes.

[44] Allan. H. H. Flora of New Zealand. Government Printer, Wellington. 1961
The standard work, in 3 volumes though only the first two are of interest to the plant project. Very good on habitats.

[46] Uphof. J. C. Th. Dictionary of Economic Plants. Weinheim 1959
An excellent and very comprehensive guide but it only gives very short descriptions of the uses without any details of how to utilize the plants. Not for the casual reader.

[57] Schery. R. W. Plants for Man. 0
Fairly readable but not very comprehensive. Deals with plants from around the world.

[61] Usher. G. A Dictionary of Plants Used by Man. Constable 1974 ISBN 0094579202
Forget the sexist title, this is one of the best books on the subject. Lists a very extensive range of useful plants from around the world with very brief details of the uses. Not for the casual reader.

[75] Rosewarne experimental horticultural station. Shelter Trees and Hedges. Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food 1984
A small booklet packed with information on trees and shrubs for hedging and shelterbelts in exposed maritime areas.

[78] Sheat. W. G. Propagation of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers. MacMillan and Co 1948
A bit dated but a good book on propagation techniques with specific details for a wide range of plants.

[128] Laing. and Blackwell. Plants of New Zealand. Whitcombe and Tombs Ltd 1907
An old flora of New Zealand in a readable style. Some details of plant uses.

[153] Brooker. S. G., Cambie. R. C. and Cooper. R. C. Economic Native Plants of New Zealand. Oxford University Press 1991 ISBN 0-19-558229-2
An interesting and readable book on the useful plants of New Zealand.

[168] Grae. I. Nature's Colors - Dyes from Plants. MacMillan Publishing Co. New York. 1974 ISBN 0-02-544950-8
A very good and readable book on dyeing.

[169] Buchanan. R. A Weavers Garden. 0
Covers all aspects of growing your own clothes, from fibre plants to dyes.

[173] Crowe. A. Native Edible Plants of New Zealand. Hodder and Stoughton 1990 ISBN 0-340-508302
A very well written and illustrated book based on the authors own experiments with living on a native diet.

[183] Facciola. S. Cornucopia - A Source Book of Edible Plants. Kampong Publications 1990 ISBN 0-9628087-0-9
Excellent. Contains a very wide range of conventional and unconventional food plants (including tropical) and where they can be obtained (mainly N. American nurseries but also research institutes and a lot of other nurseries from around the world.

[189] Bell. L. A. Plant Fibres for Papermaking. Liliaceae Press 1988
A good practical section on how to make paper on a small scale plus details of about 75 species (quite a few of them tropical) that can be used.

[200] Huxley. A. The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992. MacMillan Press 1992 ISBN 0-333-47494-5
Excellent and very comprehensive, though it contains a number of silly mistakes. Readable yet also very detailed.

[233] Thomas. G. S. Perennial Garden Plants J. M. Dent & Sons, London. 1990 ISBN 0 460 86048 8
A concise guide to a wide range of perennials. Lots of cultivation guides, very little on plant uses.

Readers Comments

Plants for a Future does not verify the accuracy of reader comments, use at your own risk. In particular Plants For A Future can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. You should always consult a professional before using plants medicinally.

Phormium tenax

Thu Oct 12 2006

I am interested in which animals eat parts of NZ flax. Also which animals now extinct ate the plant. I have seen plants where sheep have apparently stripped the upper ends of leaves of the non-fibrous material leaving the "beaten" fibres.

Phormium tenax

mysteriously eaten Thu Nov 2 2006

I'm interested in what animal(s) eat phormium "bronze baby". We have some bronze baby that were eaten to the root.

Phormium tenax

Ken Fern, Plants for a Future. Mon Nov 6 2006

The only creature we have read about that eats New Zealand Flax plants in New Zealand is a bird called the Pukeko - it seems to have a similar mainly ground-dwelling habit like the Pheasant. It is quite likely that other creatures also eat the plant, though looking at the leaves you wonder why!

Phormium tenax

David Nicholls Sun Nov 26 2006

I feel much more comfortable using flax leaves for tying stakes to trees as although they are increadably strong initially,they are likely to have disintegrated or weakened before a tree gets so big it starts to get cut by a non-organic fastening material like plastic or metal, which can cut into the tree possibly killing it. It's happened to me before. I've been using it this way for a year, so far so good.

Phormium tenax

David Nicholls Sun Nov 26 2006

I feel much more comfortable using flax leaves for tying stakes to trees. Although they are increadably strong initially,they are likely to have disintegrated or weakened before a tree gets so big it starts to get cut by a non-organic tying material like plastic or metal, which can cut into the tree possibly killing it. That's happened to me. I've been using it this way for a year, so far so good. Cant give any guarantees but thought approach worth a mention.

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