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Morus nigra - L.

Black Mulberry

Author	L.	Botanical references	11, 200, 266
Family	Moraceae	Genus	Morus
Synonyms
Known Hazards	None known
Range	W. Asia?
Habitat	Original habitat is obscure.
Edibility Rating	5 (1-5)	Medicinal Rating	3 (1-5)

Physical Characteristics

A decidious Tree growing to 10m by 15m at a slow rate.

The plant prefers light (sandy), medium (loamy) and heavy (clay) soils and requires well-drained soil. The plant prefers acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils. It can grow in semi-shade (light woodland) or no shade. It requires moist soil. It can tolerate atmospheric pollution.

Habitats

Woodland Garden; Canopy; Secondary; Sunny Edge; Dappled Shade;

Cultivars: (as above except)
'Chelsea'
'Wellington'

Edible Uses

Edible Parts: Fruit.

Fruit - raw, cooked or used in preserves[1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 9, 183]. A delicious slightly acid flavour, it makes an excellent dessert fruit and can be eaten in quantity[K]. The fruit is juicy and refreshing, though it must be used as soon as it is ripe (from mid-August to September) otherwise it will start to rot[200]. The fruit falls from the tree as soon as it is fully ripe. It is best, therefore, to grow the tree in short grass to cushion the fall of the fruit but to still make it possible to find and harvest[K]. The fruit can also be dried and ground into a powder[183]. The fruit is up to 25mm in diameter[200, 227].

Medicinal Uses

Plants For A Future can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

Anthelmintic; Astringent; Homeopathy; Hypoglycaemic; Laxative; Odontalgic; Purgative.

The mulberry has a long history of medicinal use in Chinese medicine, almost all parts of the plant are used in one way or another[238]. The white mulberry (M. alba) is normally used, but this species has the same properties[238]. Recent research has shown improvements in elephantiasis when treated with leaf extract injections and in tetanus following oral doses of the sap mixed with sugar[238]. Analgesic, emollient, sedative[7, 176]. The leaves are antibacterial, astringent, diaphoretic, hypoglycaemic, odontalgic and ophthalmic[218, 238]. They are taken internally in the treatment of colds, influenza, eye infections and nosebleeds[238]. The leaves are collected after the first frosts of autumn and can be used fresh but are generally dried[238]. The stems are antirheumatic, diuretic, hypotensive and pectoral[218, 238]. A tincture of the bark is used to relieve toothache[7]. The branches are harvested in late spring or early summer and are dried for later use[238]. The fruit has a tonic effect on kidney energy[218, 238]. It is used in the treatment of urinary incontinence, tinnitus, premature greying of the hair and constipation in the elderly[238]. Its main use in herbal medicine is as a colouring and flavouring in other medicines[4]. The root bark is antitussive, diuretic, expectorant and hypotensive[238]. It is used internally in the treatment of asthma, coughs, bronchitis, oedema, hypertension and diabetes[238]. The roots are harvested in the winter and dried for later use[238]. The bark is anthelmintic and purgative, it is used to expel tape worms[4, 240]. Extracts of the plant have antibacterial and fungicidal activity[218]. A homeopathic remedy is made from the leaves[9]. It is used in the treatment of diabetes[9].

Other Uses

Dye; Fibre; Wood.

A fibre used in weaving is obtained from the bark[7]. A red-violet to dark purple dye is obtained from the fruit[168]. A yellow-green dye is obtained from the leaves[168]. Wood - used in joinery[100].

Cultivation details

Prefers a warm moist but well-drained loamy soil in a sheltered sunny position[1, 11]. Prefers a light soil[37]. Plants are very tolerant of atmospheric pollution[4]. Trees are hardy as far north as southern Sweden[4]. A slow growing[200] but very ornamental tree[1], the mulberry is sometimes cultivated in gardens for its delicious edible fruit[183]. The tree is not grown on a commercial scale because the fruit is too soft and easily damaged to allow it to be transported to market, and is therefore best eaten straight from the tree. There are some named varieties[183]. The mulberry takes many years to settle down and produce good crops of fruit, about 15 years being the norm[4]. Trees fruit well in southern and south-western Britain[59, 200] but they require the protection of a wall further north if the fruit is to ripen[200]. This is a good tree for growing grapes into[20]. It means that the grapes are difficult to pick, but they always seem to be healthier and free from fungal diseases[201]. Plants are late coming into leaf and also lose their leaves at the first autumn frosts though the tree in leaf casts quite a dense shade[200]. Mulberries have brittle roots and so need to be handled with care when planting them out[238]. Any pruning should only be carried out in the winter when the plant is fully dormant because mulberries bleed badly when cut[238]. Ideally prune only badly placed branches and dead wood[238]. Once considered to be a very long-lived tree, doubts are now being cast on this assumption, it is probably fairly short-lived[11]. Plants in this genus are notably resistant to honey fungus[200].

Propagation

The seed germinates best if given 2 - 3 months cold stratification[80, 98]. Sow the seed as soon as it is ripe if possible, otherwise in February in a cold frame. The seed usually germinates in the first spring, though it sometimes takes another 12 months. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and grow them on in the cold frame for their first winter. Plant them out in late spring or early summer after the last expected frosts. Cuttings of half-ripe wood, 7 - 10cm with a heel, July/August in a frame. Plant out in spring. A good percentage take, though they sometimes fail to thrive[78, 113]. Cuttings of mature wood of the current season's growth, 25 - 30cm with a heel of 2 year old wood, autumn or early spring in a cold frame or a shady bed outside[78, 113,200]. Bury the cuttings to threequarters of their depth. It is said that cuttings of older wood up to 2.5 metres long can be readily made to strike[4]. The cuttings are taken in February and planted 30cm deep in a shady sheltered position outdoors. The stem is wrapped in moss to prevent water loss by transpiration, with only the top few buds not being covered[4]. Layering in autumn[200].

Cultivars

'Chelsea'

Long, dark mulberry-red fruit of fine flavour[183]. Excellent eaten fresh, in pies or preserves, or made into wine[183]. A precocious tree, fruiting within 2-3 years of planting out[183].

'Kaester'

The large, elongated fruit is up to 4cm long and 12mm wide[183]. Deep purple or black when fully ripe, the juice is bright red, the flavour very sweet with a good balance between sweetness and acidity[183]. The tree bears heavily and is easily propagated by cuttings[183].

'Wellington'

The medium-size fruit is long, slender and cylindrical, it is about 30mm long and 10mm wide, the skin is reddish-black, the flesh soft, of good flavour[183]. It ripens over a period of several weeks[183]. A very productive tree[183].

Links

This plant is also mentioned in the following PFAF articles: Alternative fruits, Edible Shrubs, The Urban Garden .

References

[K] Ken Fern
Notes from observations, tasting etc at Plants For A Future and on field trips.

[1] F. Chittendon. RHS Dictionary of Plants plus Supplement. 1956 Oxford University Press 1951
Comprehensive listing of species and how to grow them. Somewhat outdated, it has been replaces in 1992 by a new dictionary (see [200]).

[2] Hedrick. U. P. Sturtevant's Edible Plants of the World. Dover Publications 1972 ISBN 0-486-20459-6
Lots of entries, quite a lot of information in most entries and references.

[3] Simmons. A. E. Growing Unusual Fruit. David and Charles 1972 ISBN 0-7153-5531-7
A very readable book with information on about 100 species that can be grown in Britain (some in greenhouses) and details on how to grow and use them.

[4] Grieve. A Modern Herbal. Penguin 1984 ISBN 0-14-046-440-9
Not so modern (1930's?) but lots of information, mainly temperate plants.

[7] Chiej. R. Encyclopaedia of Medicinal Plants. MacDonald 1984 ISBN 0-356-10541-5
Covers plants growing in Europe. Also gives other interesting information on the plants. Good photographs.

[9] Launert. E. Edible and Medicinal Plants. Hamlyn 1981 ISBN 0-600-37216-2
Covers plants in Europe. a drawing of each plant, quite a bit of interesting information.

[11] Bean. W. Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement. Murray 1981
A classic with a wealth of information on the plants, but poor on pictures.

[20] Riotte. L. Companion Planting for Successful Gardening. Garden Way, Vermont, USA. 1978 ISBN 0-88266-064-0
Fairly good.

[37] Thompson. B. The Gardener's Assistant. Blackie and Son. 1878
Excellent general but extensive guide to gardening practices in the 19th century. A very good section on fruits and vegetables with many little known species.

[59] Thurston. Trees and Shrubs in Cornwall. 0
Trees and shrubs that succeed in Cornwall based on the authors own observations. Good but rather dated.

[78] Sheat. W. G. Propagation of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers. MacMillan and Co 1948
A bit dated but a good book on propagation techniques with specific details for a wide range of plants.

[80] McMillan-Browse. P. Hardy Woody Plants from Seed. Grower Books 1985 ISBN 0-901361-21-6
Does not deal with many species but it is very comprehensive on those that it does cover. Not for casual reading.

[98] Gordon. A. G. and Rowe. D. C. f. Seed Manual for Ornamental Trees and Shrubs. 0
Very comprehensive guide to growing trees and shrubs from seed. Not for the casual reader.

[100] Polunin. O. Flowers of Europe - A Field Guide. Oxford University Press 1969 ISBN 0192176218
An excellent and well illustrated pocket guide for those with very large pockets. Also gives some details on plant uses.

[113] Dirr. M. A. and Heuser. M. W. The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation. Athens Ga. Varsity Press 1987 ISBN 0942375009
A very detailed book on propagating trees. Not for the casual reader.

[168] Grae. I. Nature's Colors - Dyes from Plants. MacMillan Publishing Co. New York. 1974 ISBN 0-02-544950-8
A very good and readable book on dyeing.

[176] Yeung. Him-Che. Handbook of Chinese Herbs and Formulas. Institute of Chinese Medicine, Los Angeles 1985
An excellent Chinese herbal giving information on over 500 species. Rather technical and probably best suited to the more accomplished user of herbs.

[183] Facciola. S. Cornucopia - A Source Book of Edible Plants. Kampong Publications 1990 ISBN 0-9628087-0-9
Excellent. Contains a very wide range of conventional and unconventional food plants (including tropical) and where they can be obtained (mainly N. American nurseries but also research institutes and a lot of other nurseries from around the world.

[200] Huxley. A. The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992. MacMillan Press 1992 ISBN 0-333-47494-5
Excellent and very comprehensive, though it contains a number of silly mistakes. Readable yet also very detailed.

[201] Allardice.P. A - Z of Companion Planting. Cassell Publishers Ltd. 1993 ISBN 0-304-34324-2
A well produced and very readable book.

[218] Duke. J. A. and Ayensu. E. S. Medicinal Plants of China Reference Publications, Inc. 1985 ISBN 0-917256-20-4
Details of over 1,200 medicinal plants of China and brief details of their uses. Often includes an analysis, or at least a list of constituents. Heavy going if you are not into the subject.

[227] Vines. R.A. Trees of North Texas University of Texas Press. 1982 ISBN 0292780206
A readable guide to the area, it contains descriptions of the plants and their habitats with quite a bit of information on plant uses.

[238] Bown. D. Encyclopaedia of Herbs and their Uses. Dorling Kindersley, London. 1995 ISBN 0-7513-020-31
A very well presented and informative book on herbs from around the globe. Plenty in it for both the casual reader and the serious student. Just one main quibble is the silly way of having two separate entries for each plant.

[240] Chopra. R. N., Nayar. S. L. and Chopra. I. C. Glossary of Indian Medicinal Plants (Including the Supplement). Council of Scientific and Industrial Research, New Delhi. 1986
Very terse details of medicinal uses of plants with a wide range of references and details of research into the plants chemistry. Not for the casual reader.

[266] Flora of China 1994
On-line version of the Flora - an excellent resource giving basic info on habitat and some uses.

Readers Comments

Plants for a Future does not verify the accuracy of reader comments, use at your own risk. In particular Plants For A Future can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. You should always consult a professional before using plants medicinally.

Morus nigra

Philip B. hunt Sat Nov 3 2007

I need to know whether Morus nigra was introduced after or before the dissolution of the Monasteries. A number of scources give the introduction date as 1548. I take the view that if this was recorded as the date of introduction from China it is unlikely that it would have been grown in Monastery gardens before this date as it would have been well recorded and well known. I would be most grateful for views.

Morus nigra

mrs mulberry Sat Dec 15 2007

As far as I understand it, morus nigra was introduced to the UK by King James I. The original tree planted is Morus nigra 'Charlton House' where it was planted in the park of the same name. King James ordered that mulberries should be planted everywhere, it is said, in error, because he thought that we could start a silk industry with silkworms. However, again, this is only hearsay and you need to double check, he should have planted morus alba, as these are the ones the silkworms breed on, not morus nigra.

Morus nigra

Erik tettelaar Sat Feb 28 2009

please can you advise about the depth and spread of the roots of morus nigra. we have an established tree with one of the roots unlifting out tarmac drive. We need to retarmac the drive. Can we save the tree if we were to cut out that root? Or is it best to dig out the tree and roots together before we retarmac the drive. Please advise Many thanks.

Morus nigra

J Cartwright Sun Apr 5 2009

What is it's biodiversity rating for hosting other life?

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